Bhilar – Rioja Alavesa Graciano

David Sampedro and his wife, Melanie Hickman own and run this 9.5 ha biodynamic estate around the village of Elvillar in the Rioja Alavesa where limestone soils meander through three valleys that run between the Sierra Cantabria mountains and the River Ebro. The philosophy is based on a modern approach promoting respect for the environment with a partially subterranean built ‘‘off the grid’’ winery powered by solar panels, and ambitious natural wine making that follows the lunar calendar. Ageing takes place for the top wines in French oak 500 and 600 litre casks. The resulting wines are enticing, dense, deep, and elegant. They also exploit some small plots of old Rufete vines in the mountainous region of Salamanca, where the soils are composed of granite and slate.

Biodynamic. Sourced from grapes grown in different villages of Rioja Alavesa, Laguardia, Leza and Páganos. The destemmed grapes are pressed before undergoing fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats for 6 months, on lees. During this period, malolactic fermentation takes place naturally. Very few 100% Graciano wines are made, even less frequent are those made in concrete vats (this might be the only one).

Lágrimas sees no wood at all, allowing this cooler climate Graciano to express its forceful personality with no filter, as it were. Sappy, bright and tangy, the result is less chewy than many examples of the grape, showing nuanced tannin management, plum and redcurrant flavours and undertones of dried herbs.

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